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The Dream of My Return by Horacio Castellanos Moya
Several books on my recent reading pile might broadly be categorised as being about ‘exiles’, and few exiled people have been in a worse position than those who left their homelands to avoid the Central American guerilla wars of the 1980s. This applied especially to combatants, but almost equally at risk were left-wing sympathisers or…
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The Murder of Berta Cáceres
According to the campaign group Global Witness, 116 environmental activists were killed in 2014, a fifth more than the year before. Many of them were leaders of indigenous communities defending their land. The most dangerous place for environmental campaigners is Honduras, where 101 were reported killed between 2010 and 2014. The chief activist of the…
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Travel advice for visitors to Nicaragua
Would you visit a country if you were warned to ‘exercise a high degree of caution’ because ‘armed violence’ is very common? Having lived in Nicaragua for 13 peaceful years, I haven’t given a lot of thought to the travel advice to visitors issued by Britain’s Foreign Office or by other governments. But my attention…
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Overland from Cuba to Texas
Thawing relations between the United States and Cuba have brought an upsurge in Cubans trying to leave the island. They’re worried that they may lose their favourable US immigration status, becoming no more welcome than any other Latino who fancies life in the US. Since 1995, the ‘wet foot, dry foot’ policy has deterred people…
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The Moor’s Account by Laila Lalami
This story takes an unusual premise, adds some excellent research, and results in a very readable and sympathetic novel which convincingly describes one of the mosy bizarre episodes in the Spanish conquest of the Americas. The long walk undertaken by the Spanish adventurer Cabeza de Vaca is already chronicled (and a contemporary description forms a…
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1519: A Journey to the End of Time
So much has been written about the Spanish conquest of Latin America that it has become difficult to find new approaches to the topic. Hugh Thomas’s definitive history of the invasion of Mexico, now called simply Conquest, is 20 years old, but his monumental history of the Spanish monarchy is much more recent, and volume…
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A Cuban school
The village primary school in El Corralito in the province of Pinar del Rio has 30 students and 15 teachers. We were invited to their celebration of the ‘Day of the Teacher’ (December 22), along with all the students and parents (almost all those attending were mothers). The day began as it always does, with…
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Letters: Denis Healey’s depth of knowledge
This letter was in response to the The Guardian’s obituary of Denis Healey. David McKie says that Denis Healey was “formidably equipped” for the job of foreign secretary, despite never getting it. I had an experience in the 1980s that made me draw the same conclusion but which also gave an insight as to why…
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Meet me under the Ceiba
La Curva is an unremarkable small Nicaraguan town, a few kilometres south of Masaya. I’ve known it for twenty years, and to me its only outstanding feature is a pair of huge ‘guanacaste’ trees, bedecked with epiphytic plants, that stand on the south side of the main road (or stood, I’ve been told that one…